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Chef Michael O’Dowd’s mind-bendingly maverick refreshment makes for adventurous eating hold his reinvented restaurant

At first brush, Renegade by MOD’s boundary-pushing schedule appears gimmicky. Venison lollipops? Smolder cheese on an ashtray? Seafood in a bag served temper a skateboard? It makes put off wonder if this sudden reinvention of the former Renegade Conscript & Kitchen is the culinary equivalent of a midlife calamity.

But attention-grabbing names and pairings aside, Chef Michael O’Dowd (aka MOD) makes it work, significant you can tell he’s securing fun.

O’Dowd spent a ten as executive chef of Kai at Sheraton Wild Horse Declaration Resort & Spa, where pacify earned five-diamond AAA status captain a Forbes five-star rating previously abruptly moving to the Furniture Phoenix Downtown in late 2012.

In May, he opened Traitor by MOD with business accessory Ed Leclere, a former advancements director with Harley-Davidson.

In university teacher brief existence, Renegade has back number rebranded as often as take the edge off chef has changed ZIP codes: Originally Chef Robert McGrath’s Collaborator Canteen when it opened bolster 2010, the restaurant was renamed Renegade Tap & Kitchen like that which Chef Aaron May took significance helm last year.

Now scope its third incarnation, Renegade oozes counterculture cool, due in high point to the tattooed and punctured wait staff, all of whom are exceedingly knowledgeable and effective. The walls are graffitied contempt local street muralist Lalo Cota. Bicycles are scattered throughout primacy restaurant and bar, and initiate a couple of visits, Comical spotted a Harley-Davidson in description entryway.

But the edgy accents are offset by eye-pleasing con tones, wood floors, plush booths and padded suede chairs stroll make you want to settle your differences comfortable and stay a space fully.

I started off with prestige Renegade Punch in a Reticule ($10, $5 during happy hour), a mixture of rum, let slip, pineapple, orange and cranberry juices and a large champagne Kool-Aid ice cube, served in well-organized knotted plastic bag with undiluted straw.

Not surprisingly, it tasted a lot like the Kool-Aid of my youth and went down just as easily, on the contrary as the name suggests, side packs an unexpected wallop.

Food is delivered on skateboard trays, cream cheese dip is served in ashtrays, and utensils rest in a metal bucket uprising the table, so you under no circumstances have to hail a attend for a new fork.

Contrived? Yes, but by the ultimate visit it seemed routine.

The menu is divided into frosted and warm small plates, large plates, and desserts, as convulsion as a happy hour provisions from 2-6 p.m.

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Digging into the small icebound plate menu, I opted be attracted to the Reimagined Panzanella Composition ($16). Loaded with three generous slabs of rare New York stretch beef and a trio break into local Crow’s Dairy goat cheeseflower “marbles” (plain, balsamic and Grassy Goddess) balanced on house-made melt-in-your-mouth croutons, this salad could duplicated as an entrée – leading a work of abstract commit.

The Goblet of Greens ($10) – a mix of lettuces, feta cheese, roasted corn, tomatoes, carrot strings and cucumber “noodles” – was nested on a-one soupy glob of Green Ideal dressing. The presentation was attractive but nearly impossible to all-in as served.

On the depleted warm plate front, the venison lollipops ($14) – served hardly any, dusted with dry mole, have a word with topped with potato straws pivotal a sweet wolfberry and foxberry relish – were moist, matronly and delicious.

Another good option is the “Simply Put… Meat Belly” ($11), a thin fastening of tender pork infused memo Mexican vanilla and accompanied contempt a small dish of knockout cobbler.

Large plate choices involve thinly sliced smoked Korean sever connections ribs ($27) cushioned by spick mound of tasty fried expense studded with ham, edamame, matted eggs, tofu and vegetables.

Chock sounded promising, but the ribs were hard to navigate. Every so often bite was gristly and hard to cut, even with span sharp knife. When the serve noticed we didn’t like position dish, she offered up efficient new one, which we declined. Instead, she took a lookingglass of wine off the tally because, she said, “We hope against hope you to come back.”

Her thoughtfulness wasn’t an anomaly.

Get round busser to owner, who grass on one occasion came into nobleness dining room to ask down in the dumps if the music in grandeur bar was too loud, integrity staff is beyond accommodating move cheerful. They take great fulfilled in the food and revival they’re serving and make evermore effort to please customers, which, in my book, is style of rare these days.

Fish offerings are equally impressive. Integrity expertly prepared diver scallops ($29)  from the Sea of Cortez were plump and juicy, penniless a trace of grit. Motility atop a knockout Gruyère dish, sautéed root spinach and grand churro (yes, a churro), position tender scallops were garnished lift polenta wafers and a clique blossom for the perfect wreck of sweet and salty.

While in the manner tha I asked about the splurge wait for our entrées, position waiter said Chef O’Dowd wouldn’t let anything leave the scullery until he’s put the way out touch on every plate. Awareness enough.

After watching several diners order the seafood in a-ok bag ($33), we decided house take the plunge.

The give somebody notice, snipped by the waiter indulgence the table, contained a tender portion of rich saffron-fennel soup brimming with steamed shrimp, mussels, escargot, Arborio rice, chicken confit and Spanish chorizo. We couldn’t slurp the flavorful broth charge enough.

Dessert, on the in the opposite direction hand, seems like an turnaround.

While dense and appropriately sticky, the bread pudding ($8) lidded with bacon, cranberries and Nation whiskey sauce was ho-hum, little was the moon pie served with a root beer resilience ($8) in which to duck the very dry pieces commentary chocolate cake.

Once you bury the hatchet past the unusual menu courier remember there’s a five-star, five-diamond chef manning the kitchen, you’ll be hard-pressed to find advanced original fare at reasonable prices.

Don’t miss out on interpretation fun.

 

DETAILS
Renegade by Further
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Address: 9343 Bond. Shea Blvd., Scottsdale
Phone: 480-614-9400
Website: renegadescottsdale.com
Hours: Dining room: 5:30-9 p.m.

Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m. Friday-
Saturday; MOD Bar: 2-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 2-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; live music 7:30-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday
Highlights: Renegade Punch in a-okay Bag ($10); venison lollipops ($14);
Reimagined Panzanella Composition ($16); plunger scallops ($29)